by Bob Cory - President, Assoc of Southern Maryland Beekeepers, Nov 11, 1999
Goal - Average 100 pounds of honey per colony by maintaining strong colonies year round with a minimum of sugar feeding.
Equipment - Two story colonies with Italian bees, queen excluder and double screen divider board, Illinois supers.

The Calendar
July 15 All honey supers removed by now and any subsequent honey be left for overwintering.
August 1 Check all colonies for presence of Varroa mites using the ether roll or drone spearing method.
Treat if mites are abundant. Requeen as needed
Sept 1 Entrance reducers on all colonies. They discourage robbing and exclude mice.
Check for Varroa if not treated.
Sept 15 Treat all colonies for Trachael mites. I use a 3"X5" piece of corrugated cardboard coated with 1/4" thick vege-table grease imbedded with two TBS. of menthol crystals. Check for Varroa and treat if needed.
Sept 25 Move cardboard/menthol strips from one corner of top bars to another, scrape propolis and repeat at 7 to 10 days.
November Remove Apistan strips after 45 to 55 days
January When temperatures exceeds 50°F check colonies for brood and/or presence of queen.
Colonies will benefit if fed a pollen substitute at this time.
Mid-Feb to
end of April
A critical time depending on weather. Hives should be boiling over with bees and close attention should be paid to adequate stores. If starvation is imminent I feed 5 lb. of dry sugar by pouring down the sides and back of the top brood box. This works better than on top of the inner cover.
IMPORTANT during this time I clean and transfer all my brood frames into clean hive bodies.
Check for Varroa and treat with Apistan if needed.
Mar 15 HONEY PRODUCTION AND SWARM CONTROL -
Starting with your top brood box, remove the frames and stand on end stacked against the bottom box. Make two stacks one with brood and remainder of frames in the other. If you find the queen set her frame apart from the others. Remove the top box and repeat procedure with frames in bottom box. Assuming you found the queen place her and frame in the now empty bottom box filling the rest of the space with broodless frames. Make sure enough honey goes into the top brood box as most of the field bees will end up in the bottom. Place a queen excluder on top of the bottom brood box; a honey super on top of that, followed by a double screen divider board. The divider board should have the small entrance hole to the rear if they are to requeen themselves or to the front if a new queen is to be introduced. Run as a two queen colony for about 3 weeks until at least one frame of capped worker cells is present in the top box.
May 7 About the 7th. of May, when the primary nectar flow begins, recombine the two colonies by moving the excluder and honey super above the two brood boxes. Add at least 5 more shallow supers at this time. You can let the two queens fight it out or find and kill the older queen in the bottom box.
If you plan to purchase queens follow the same procedure as above but start about 3 weeks later.
"My plan for the future is to use new queens for my weaker colonies and make the early splits on the strong colonies. The last two years I have had colonies in a swarming mode as early as mid March. The spring of 1999, 14 of 19 colonies were split and slightly over 2,000 pounds of honey was harvested!"
About the Author:
  Bob Cory is a retired marine biologist who spent a lifetime studying mollusks in the Chesapeake Bay. As a retired biologist and scientist, he has applied his curiosity and skills of observation to his hobby of beekeeping, as you can tell from his notes above. He has been an active and valued member of the Bowie-Upper Marlboro Beekeepers Assoc. nearly since its founding in 1980. He also is President of the Association of Southern Maryland Beekeepers, and a Christmas tree farmer.
(ed.: This page is a keeper! Post it in your honey house and make more honey!)